Day Four: Santiago and salsa
Listen to Esteban's 'Santiago' as you read this!
Reached Santiago around 1pm on Friday 9th March. After a 15-16 hour bus ride in a full bus we were really looking forward to finding a casa particular to crash at. Sleeping in the bus wasn't the biggest success, especially as my seat was broken and the bus was freezing cold.
As we had had trouble getting bus tickets to Santiago we decided to buy tickets to Trinidad immediately when arriving to Santiago. This way we'd at least be on board for sure!
But yay, what a nice surprise awaited outside the bus terminal doors: a thirty headed crowd of crazy fans and stalkers. I thought we'd get to be alone, peacefully, trying to search for the perfect accommodation. False thoughts, silly. We tried to pass all these men and walk out of the doors heading towards destination unknown. Now that was a struggle! They all called my name 'Linda, Linda', offered taxies and tried to sell us accommodation in their houses. Is my blog seriously that big in Cuba? What a celebrity feel it was.
For those who are thinking 'what on earth, is that girl crazy?' - no. Linda means pretty in Portuguese/Spanish. That's why the 'knew my name'.
Let me tell you a funny name -story by the way.
When I was little, very little, a just born baby, my parents and me went traveling around Portugal for a few months. Some Portuguese girls were very excited about me and told my parents: 'Linda bebe, Linda bebe!' Mum and dad hadn't quite understood the situation and thought 'how on earth do these girls know the name of our child? this is creepy!' Later on it occurred to them that the word 'linda' actually had a meaning.
I'm just thankful that at least it meant pretty and not earthworm or something!
After getting rid of all these 'fans' and salesmen, walking around who knows where and sweating like pigs because of our long sleeved and pant clothing we finally decided to take a taxi. As a protest to the unpleasant welcome we had, we wanted to take a taxi from somewhere else than these too eager salesmen. We found a bici taxi and the man asked us if we wanted a ride. 3 pesos and he would bike us to the city center. The deal didn't sound bad at all.
But oh my goooosh. If we had only known that Santiago was actually called the San Francisco of Cuba we would have NEVER taken a bici taxi. Poor old guy was cycling us and our luggage up crazy hills that I wouldn't have even biked myself up on. We could see how his skin started getting wet spots of sweat and how his clothes started turning a darker color. Plus, Santiago being probably the hottest city in Cuba, guess how bad we felt. The vibe of the city was very...historical. Felt like we'd gone bad centuries. And I felt like a queen using slavery. Believe me, it did not feel good.
So a word of advice: don't use bici taxies in Santiago.
We tipped the guy and hoped he'd survive back home.
By the way, bici taxies are not even legal for tourists to use. This is why the guy had to leave us a bit outside of the main streets of Santiago. I would make the taxies illegal for anyone - such slavery seriously!
We tried to find accommodation tips from the Lonely Planet -book I had bought. Unfortunately (or later to our luck) a guy started following us and offering help, accommodation, anything we wanted. I was already getting pretty annoyed by all these guys following us and never leaving alone. In Cuba if someone helps you, you should pay for the help given. We didn't want to be paying people if we don't ask for help! Get lost man, I was thinking.
The few places recommended by Lonely Planet were full. This guy was still annoying us but as we were tired of walking, we decided to give him a chance. Fine - take us to this amazing accommodation of yours.
Thankfully we listened to him. We were welcomed to a lovely family in a lovely area in a nice house. We went into our room, took a shower and rested for a while before heading out to explore the city.
Accommodation 25pesos a night per room.
We also ate at the house. Fish and rice! But YUMMY for once. This fun also cost us like 15pesos all together. I miss the food the Cuban families made us. The fish was delicious.
Our new best friends! Neighbors from our Santiago -home street.
Ronaldo, Fernando, Yuri, Antonio...
Our next stop in the evening was Casa De La Tradiciones!
We were warmly welcomed to the salsa house of locals. It was only locals plus two Portuguese men who were pretty much locals as they had been to Santiago tens of times.
The night included tens of pictures, tens of new friends, tens of men asking to dance with them, tens of friendly people, live performers and one way too strong pina colada.
...and a new boyfriend!
This guy, whose name I unfortunately can't remember, had apparently been a very famous Cuban singer a couple years back. Anyone recognize? I have no idea of the name!
After a lot of convincing my new boyfriend got me on the dance floor. My favorite move that I learnt was definitely a 'wiggly, wobbly' legs one. Wish I had video of that for you, but unfortunately I don't.
In the evening when we came home our host mummy came into our room wearing her pajamas, just making sure we were alright. Cute!
<3
Linda
xxx
ps. Sanni's post of Santiago day 1 here.
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